Hows that haircut going?

RTR...USN (ret) said:
Only problem I’ve had, was an “Integrated wheel end “ or IWE go bad. 4x4 system is vacuum disengage and it developed a leak and would engage the 4x4. Took me most of the day to change it. Pain in the ass. Also had a throttle position sensor malfunction which caused the engine to go into “limp mode”. Took about 30 minutes to change. No other issues.
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I like older trucks because much less "vacuum" and "sensor" issues. My old 71 Blazer is so easy to work on.
 
Damn, I can't believe I'm posting this in a thread about haircuts. :LOL: Back to the Ecoboost.

I've posted this before, but adding a catch can system is cheap insurance. This is true of all direct injected engines, especially those with forced induction, turbo and supercharging.

With direct injection, fuel goes straight into the combustion chambers and doesn't get the opportunity to wash the back of the intake valves, sometimes causing carbon buildup, especially with hard use.

The situation is exacerbated with forced induction due to increased crankcase pressure shoving more oil through the EGR, (exhaust gas recirculation), system, whitch sends that oil into the intake.

The accumulated deposits can break loose and ruin a motor or the turbos. Catch cans keep that oil from getting to the intake.

As for the independent wheel ends, I don’t know why Ford changed to that setup vs. the differential actuator on the 97-03s, but trust me, having default 4wd is better than not being able to engage it if something fails.

If you have to replace an independent wheel end, put a bit of grease around the rubber seal. That will help it keep out water, dirt, and brake dust which are what kills those things.
 
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RazzlDazzl said:
Damn, I can't believe I'm posting this in a thread about haircuts. :LOL: Back to the Ecoboost.

I've posted this before, but adding a catch can system is cheap insurance. This is true of all direct injected engines, especially those with forced induction, turbo and supercharging.

With direct injection, fuel goes straight into the combustion chambers and doesn't get the opportunity to wash the back of the intake valves, sometimes causing carbon buildup, especially with hard use.

The situation is exacerbated with forced induction due to increased crankcase pressure shoving more oil through the EGR, (exhaust gas recirculation), system, whitch sends that oil into the intake.

The accumulated deposits can break loose and ruin a motor or the turbos. Catch cans keep that oil from getting to the intake.

As for the independent wheel ends, I don’t know why Ford changed to that setup vs. the differential actuator on the 97-03s, but trust me, having default 4wd is better than not being able to engage it if something fails.

If you have to replace an independent wheel end, put a bit of grease around the rubber seal. That will help it keep out water, dirt, and brake dust which are what kills those things.
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Are you a fucking beach hippie or not?
 
OldDevilDawg said:
Never teach tha bastards everything you know.
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OldDevilDawg said:
Stepson just got a 2015 Ecoboost with 101K. What kind of problems can he expect?
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Update!!!
Just had my first major malfunction, which I can’t diagnose. ESC fault, Advancetrac fault, ABS fault, and backup assist fault. Also took out the cruise control. Have to take it to the dealer. It’s not “throwing a code”, so my scanner won’t detect it. I’ve either lost a sensor, or need the computer reflashed and reset. $89.95 just for the dealer to pop the hood. Highway robbery! Trucks drivable, but warnings out the ass.
 
RTR...USN (ret) said:
Update!!!
Just had my first major malfunction, which I can’t diagnose. ESC fault, Advancetrac fault, ABS fault, and backup assist fault. Also took out the cruise control. Have to take it to the dealer. It’s not “throwing a code”, so my scanner won’t detect it. I’ve either lost a sensor, or need the computer reflashed and reset. $89.95 just for the dealer to pop the hood. Highway robbery! Trucks drivable, but warnings out the ass.
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What year is it? Some of the first few years sometimes collected water/condensation in the cold side of the intake tube to the intercooler causing all sorts of codes.
 
RTR...USN (ret) said:
Update!!!
Just had my first major malfunction, which I can’t diagnose. ESC fault, Advancetrac fault, ABS fault, and backup assist fault. Also took out the cruise control. Have to take it to the dealer. It’s not “throwing a code”, so my scanner won’t detect it. I’ve either lost a sensor, or need the computer reflashed and reset. $89.95 just for the dealer to pop the hood. Highway robbery! Trucks drivable, but warnings out the ass.
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Disconnect from battery for an hour and check again.
 
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