Well, Everest is…a siren. She compelled people due to…vanity, insecurity, ego, need, whatever…she calls people to her to die. In the heroic era, that was deemed inexcusable. At that point Everest had been proven to be the highest point on earth, and never submitted. The Brits were dead set (as were most European powers) to summit it first. Same as reaching either pole first, finding the northwest passage, etc, explorers and heroes of the day, when the last uncharted parts of the map needed to be filled in to prove man’s divine superiority.
George Mallory was the famous summitist who made the first real -and possibly successful- attempt. When asked why he chose to climb and risk all for the perceived impossible, he said, “Because it’s there.” Boss. He was last photographed - forgive me the date/year (1924 I believe) attempting the final stages before success backed up by a very young (early 20’s, I believe) Irvine.
They pressed hard and were photographed at the (later named, and final trial/push) Hillary step. They were never seen nor heard from again.
Everest was eventually summoned, successfully by Edmond Hillary and his Sherpa backup Tenzing Norgay in the 50’s (53 I believe). Nowadays Everest is a trash collection and mass graveyard for rich dickheads with something to prove. My most infamous thread on rivals was about this.
Anyway, the mystery of the fate of Mallory (and Irvine) was paramount among mountaineers. In 1999, after claims by a Chinese climber that he saw a “aged/archaic western body”, a team found a body, proven to be George Mallory. This was akin to finding the Titanic, or the Erebus or Terror, etc.
What made his body’s discovery more interesting was, he lacked the photograph of his wife…that he carried on him…that he promised he’d leave atop the earth when he successfully summited. This was circumstantial evidence the pair may have truly been the first two people to ever reach the peak of the planet. The more sought after item- the holy grail of mountaineers- was the camera that would have been on Irvine. It would prove, definitively, if they reached the zenith a quarter century before Hillary. It’s never been discovered though being sought after for a century, but now, we have part of Irvine’s body. Perhaps we are close to answering a question that eats at the soul of man’s draw to exploration - no matter what.